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A visit to CERN's Large Hadron Collider near Geneva, Switzerland. There, two beams of protons hurtle in pipes running in opposite directions around a 27km tunnel beneath the villages near the Franco-Swiss border. At several points on the circuit they are brought together and, in controlled experiments, the protons are made to collide in huge and expensive detectors which track the sub-atomic particles thrown off by the collision. The information gathered by the physicists both there and in the many partner laboratories and institutions around the world is leading to an understanding of how the Universe was formed and how it functions.